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You don’t need the most expensive gear to get great portraits! Tony and Chelsea give their tips on which gear you need for portraits and where to spend and where to save. They go over cameras, lenses, lighting, and accessories giving general tips on advice on what to buy to get the photos you want.
Cameras:
Older DSLR cameras have less tech but more savings:
Full-frame DSLR fro more background blur and better low-light:
Mirrorless cameras for newest tech:
Lenses:
general lenses:
A 50mm prime for affordable, fast, and sharp:
a 24-70 that does everything:
A 70-200 for a classiv look:
An 85 for a unique look and bokeh galore:
Lighting:
Flashes for budget lighting:
flash with TTL, more money but easier to use:
Strobes for more light options:
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Cameras:
Older DSLR cameras have less tech but more savings: http://SDP.io/kehdslr
Full-frame DSLR fro more background blur and better low-light: http://SDP.io/ffdslr
Mirrorless cameras for newest tech: http://SDP.io/kehmirrorless
Lenses:
general lenses: http://SDP.io/kehlenses
A 50mm prime for affordable, fast, and sharp: http://SDP.io/keh50mm
a 24-70 that does everything: http://SDP.io/keh2470
A 70-200 for a classiv look: http://SDP.io/70200
An 85 for a unique look and bokeh galore: http://SDP.io/keh85
Lighting:
Flashes for budget lighting: http://SDP.io/kehflash
flash with TTL, more money but easier to use: http://SDP.io/kehttl
Strobes for more light options: http://SDP.io/kehstrobe
Tony, you also forget for dslrs there are the older PRIME lenses, 85/90, 105, 135 and finally the 180 and 200 (these last two can be more expensive, as the higher f stops they have can mean big and bulky)-the 200 in particular, the f2 Nikon version, its the size of a mortar!, wide, stumpy and heavy, but the image quality is great. also for Nikon shooters, the 105 and 135 have a Defocus control version, which alters the bokeh point, in relationship to the focus distance (not just 1/3rd 2/3rd) which gives a unique look.
Chelsea, at 9:05 another point towards the aperture discussion, having a higher aperture number is also a good thing, in 24/35mm focal lengths this ‘stopping down’ actually can save a shot, ie: the blades can shield the lens from point light sources, like other peoples strobes, or bright stadium or car lights, as the wide angle is more subjected to flare, esp. at the obtuse angles (near to 180 deg. from shooting position, aka to the far leftright of the frame), and if you are after a sharp shot, the fatter the depth of field is, the easier it is to find focus, esp. in a busy environment, or if you have to do the shoot quickly.
Super super super super 🎉
On occasion I go really old school for inexpensive portrait gear. A Nikon D-50 with a 50mm f1.8D. Equivalent to 75mm in full frame and 6 MP is enough if you are careful.